Shiplap vs Tongue and Groove - Which is Best PLUS Tutorial

When I started my first vertical shiplap wall in our entryway, I didn’t think I’d become the person with passionate opinions on wood paneling, but here we are talking about shiplap vs. tongue and groove. If you’re standing in the aisle of your local hardware store holding a shiplap board in one hand and a tongue and groove plank in the other, this post is for you.

Both are beautiful. Both are versatile. But they’re not exactly the same. There’s a reason why some people swear by one over the other, and by the end of this, you’ll be able to make an informed decision for your own project.

What’s the Difference Between Shiplap and Tongue and Groove?

Visually? Pretty similar. Structurally? That’s where the key differences come in. The main difference lies in how the boards interlock.

Shiplap boards are cut with a rabbet joint, which allows the edge of the board to overlap with the next board. This creates that classic shadow line and a rustic look many of us associate with shiplap cladding. The shiplap installation method is generally easier and more forgiving, especially if you’re just starting out with DIY projects.

Tongue and groove planks, on the other hand, fit together like puzzle pieces. One board has a tongue, the other a groove, and together they create a tight seal that gives you a seamless finish. The interlocking design of tongue and groove boards is sturdier and more secure, which can make it a better choice for cold climates, exterior siding, or places where you want minimal visible gaps.

Perks of Shiplap and Tongue and Groove

Shiplap:

Easier to install and remove
Generally more affordable
Creates a more rustic look with visible gaps and overlapping edges
Often used for accent walls and interior walls

Tongue and Groove:

Stronger, tighter connection
Slightly more expensive (sometimes up to 50 percent more)
Requires more precise installation and nailing through the tongue
Often chosen for exterior walls or garden shed paneling

How to Install Shiplap or Tongue and Groove

Tools:

Materials:

1.5”/2” Brad Nails
Pre-Primed Shiplap Boards or Tongue & Groove Boards
Wood Filler
Liquid Nails
Caulk

Step 1: Measure Twice, Cut Once

Measure your wall space and calculate the number of boards you will need, plus 20% for overage. Have extra pieces on hand just in case you measure once and cut twice, like me. (Yikes.)

Hardware stores typically have standard lengths for shiplap and tongue and groove boards, such as 8-foot and 12-foot boards. Make sure the boards you buy are longer than your ceiling height so you don’t have to make joints, because they’ll be noticeable no matter what you do—been there, done that.

Step 2: Remove Baseboards

Listen up, fellow lazy DIYers: Yes, we’re removing the baseboards before installing shiplap or tongue and groove. Starting directly above the baseboard will create a “lip” and it’ll stick out above the bottom trim. We don’t want that FUBA (Fat Upper Baseboard Area).

This is a best practice when it comes to installing any type of wood paneling along interior walls.

Step 3: Cut as You Go

Using your miter saw, cut your boards to size. Only cut a few boards at a time because walls aren’t perfectly straight, and each new board could have a slightly different measurement. This ensures that each groove board fits just right with the next board.

Step 4: Apply Adhesive

Apply a generous amount of Liquid Nails with the caulk gun to the back side of the board. Unleash your creativity and draw squiggles or write your ex’s name if you’re feeling spicy.

A strong adhesive, like wood glue or Liquid Nails, gives extra hold, especially in dry climates or with uneven surfaces.

Step 5: Nail It In

Press the board up against the wall and make sure it’s plumb (contractor lingo for straight) using your laser level. Grab the nail gun and nail in every 2 feet or so. To make sure the boards stay on really well, alternate the direction you point the gun with every screw. Point slightly left, point slightly right, and so on.

You’ll also want to make sure the nail heads are flush with the face of the board for a smooth, flat surface when you paint.

Step 6: Keep Going

Repeat the process and overlap each board so they sit tightly against each other. Now, hope and pray your last board fits the wall spaces; otherwise, you’re gonna have to pull out a circular saw or jigsaw to trim it to size. Just kidding, it’s not a big deal—with an extra pair of hands to help you, you can easily trim the board if needed using a jigsaw if you aren’t comfortable using a table saw yet. I will get you there, don’t you worry!

These little details make all the difference in achieving that clean look.

Step 7: Finish It Off

Your boards are up, and now it’s time to prep for paint. Caulk all those edges that meet the other walls and fill in the nail holes with wood filler or painter’s putty. Sand the wood filler smooth once it’s dry, and you’re ready to paint your beautiful new vertical shiplap wall!

Pro Tip: Paint the grooves of each board before installing to save time later. Unless you’re using a paint sprayer, it’s very hard to get the paint brush to fit into the grooves.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use shiplap on exterior walls?

Yes, you can, but it’s important to use treated wood and ensure proper installation. While shiplap has traditionally been used indoors, exterior siding projects with shiplap boards are possible with the right materials.

Which is better for cold climates?

Tongue and groove is generally the better choice for cold climates. Its interlocking design creates a tighter seal with fewer visible gaps, helping to block drafts and retain heat.

Is shiplap cheaper than tongue and groove?

Usually, yes. Shiplap planks are generally more affordable, which makes them a popular choice for budget-friendly DIY projects. Tongue and groove can be about 50 percent more expensive, depending on the type of wood paneling you choose.

Can I install either type directly over drywall?

Yes, both shiplap and tongue and groove can be installed over drywall using Liquid Nails and a nail gun. Just be sure to use a level and check that the boards are straight as you go.

How do I choose the right type of wood paneling?

It depends on your space, budget, and the look you want. For a clean look with easy maintenance, shiplap is a great option. If you want a tight fit and longer-lasting durability, tongue and groove might be the better choice.

Are there alternatives to real wood?

Yes. Fiber cement, bead board, and composite options exist if you’re looking for mold retardants or something that requires less maintenance over time.

Do I need to fill in nail holes before painting?

Absolutely. Whether you choose shiplap or tongue and groove, filling in the nail holes with wood filler ensures a smooth finish and helps achieve that polished final look.

So, which is the right choice for you between shiplap and tongue and groove? Honestly, it’s a personal preference.

If you’re going for a quick DIY weekend project that still gives you that modern farmhouse style, shiplap is a great choice. Its simple shiplap paneling profile and overlapping rabbet joint make it easy to install, forgiving on slightly uneven walls, and it offers lots of visual interest.

If you’re working on a more permanent space, like a high-traffic room or even a garden shed where durability matters, the interlocking design of tongue and groove may be a better choice. It’s a bit more work upfront, but gives you that tight fit and strong hold that can stand up to more.

Both are popular wood paneling options in recent years, and both can work beautifully with a wide range of interior space styles. Whether you’re after a rustic look or a more contemporary look with clean lines and easy maintenance, either can be the best option, depending on your needs.

Whatever you choose, just make sure it reflects your style, your skills, and your timeline. Because at the end of the day, whether it’s shiplap or groove paneling, the best part of DIY is making it your own.