DIY Faux Butcher Block Countertop

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Laundry room refresh – part 2

Hello Everyone! Today I’m finally getting to part two of my laundry makeover which is all about this gorgeous DIY faux butcher block countertop!

Before I jump into the countertop, I wanted to share the easiest way to “tile” a backsplash: peel and stick wall tiles! There’s literally no skill involved here and it’s something anyone can do. I got mine in a white subway tile pattern with a dark grout and I’ll link it down below.

Now let’s get to where I started with the laundry room makeover, the first sketch which was totally different from what I ended up going with, but that sketch got the ball rolling.

my laundry room started off as a drawing on a blank sheet of printer paper and the back of an envelope

I was heavily inspired by this one image from Vintage Revivals from when she made her waterfall edge countertop and that tutorial really saved my day. I had never done any woodworking project prior to this and knowing that there were others out there who had attempted similar things was very comforting.

I had a few concerns before building the countertop:

  • i wanted to be able to access the plumping in the back so I didn’t want the countertop to be secured to the wall
  • I had to make a faux waterfall edge because I didn’t want to go out and buy a table saw or other tools to help make a long mitered cut
  • I couldn’t remove the washer and dryer so I had to get creative about working around it
  • I also could not relocate the plumbing and power lines so they would have to be accommodated in the design

I sketched out the final plans as shown above, measured the space from the right wall to the entire length of the countertop and down to the floor. In the end, I only screwed in ONE 2×4″ stud into the right side wall and that’s where the countertop rests.

Here’s what I bought at Lowes:

all products linked at the end of the post

  • 1 4’x8 piece of radiata pine plywood’ (have them cut it to size, top and size of the countertop)
  • 1 2×4″ common stud
  • L brackets
  • 1×2″ furring strip (9′ length)
  • wood glue
  • 1.5″ brad nails
  • 3″ wood screws
  • 220 grit sandpaper

Tools required:

  • Compound miter saw
  • brad nail gun
  • orbital sander (optional)

Step 1:

Cut the 2×4″ piece to size, my measurement was 24″ and use your wood screws to secure it to the wall, making sure you hit two studs in the wall.

Step 2:

Once the stud is securely attached to the wall, rest your countertop piece on it and place the side piece below it as shown. This will give you a rough idea if your measurements are correct or not. The countertop is starting to take shape!

Step 3:

Using wood glue, attach the top part of the countertop to the side piece just how it’s resting on the picture below. Screw in 2 L brackets on the inside to secure the joint. You can cover up the exposed edge of the side piece with iron on veneer edging (linked below).

Step 4:

To make the faux butcher block countertop look thicker, we will face frame it with the 1×2″ furring strip. Measure out where your cuts need to be and make 45 degree miter cuts to get it to size. Secure the pieces on the face of the countertop using wood glue and your nail gun

Step 5:

Give your countertop a good sanding and wipe down before staining. I did 2 coats of weathered oak stain by Minwax to get the look I wanted. A light sanding in between each coat and finally I sealed it all with 3 coats of polyurethane.

The faux butcher block countertop in action!
the tiny blocks you see under the countertop are there to provide additional support from underneath
I love that I have easy access to my costco supply of paper towels and toilet paper!

So this is it guys! My very first experience with woodworking and building a faux butcher block countertop and I think it was a success! This brings the laundry room makeover to completion and if I’ve missed out anything please leave me a comment below so I can answer any of your questions.

Products Used:

 

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4 comments
  1. Hi,

    Love your finished look! I tried to recreate the look in my laundry room for the radiant pine plywood with 2 coats of weathered oak in minwax but it came out really gray. Did you use anything else on the wood to give it some warmth? It just looks alot different in the picture than mine.

    1. Hi! that happened for me too! Once weathered oak dried off i sanded it down so the color got a lot lighter and I sealed it with polycrylic

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